Posts Tagged ‘surf writing’

Guest editors

Last week we were stoked to be given the opportunity to guest edit the wonderful Hickory Nines blog – “We’re an evolving collective; surfers, nomads, picture takers, grinders, readers, writers and creatives. Each and all of us have different stuff that piques our individual interests. Stuff we think, and hope, you might like too. So, this is us. An eclectic bunch with a soft spot for seawater.”

Noting the variety and the quality of previous posts it was quite a challenge to maintain that high standard and hopefully our posts were of interest to the readers of the Hickoy Nines blog.

Our posts on Hickory Nines can be read here http://www.hickorynines.com/author/inkydeep/

In search of a deeper meaning

Having enjoyed Jaimal Yogis book Saltwater Buddha (a surfer’s quest to find Zen on the sea), I was delighted to recently discover that a film based on the book is now being made.  The film is currently shown as in pre-production.  Here’s the film’s promotional trailer;

Below is a short documentary about Saltwater Buddha;

Gidget – America’s Mermaid

This week on the website truthdig.com a great article by Deanne Stillman entitled ‘America’s Mermaid’ was posted – http://www.truthdig.com/report/page3/americas_mermaid_20110524/.  It is a reminder of a key piece of surf history; the story of Gidget and the role that both the book and the hit movie played in exposing thousands of people to surfing and surf culture.

In 1956 Kathy Kohner (Kohner-Zuckerman since 1964) started surfing.  She was only 15 but hung out with surfers such as Miki Dora, Mike Doyle and Micky Munoz.  The surfers at Malibu gave her the nickname “Gidget” (girl plus midget and you get Gidget).  Her father Frederick, a Hollywood screenwriter wrote the novel Gidget in 1957 and a hit movie version was released in 1959.

16 Year old surfer Kathy “Gidget” Kohner, Malibu, circa 1957

As Matt Warshaw puts it in his History of Surfing; “Kathy “Gidget” Kohner went from an unknown fifteen-year-old Malibu mascot to the subject of a hit movie, which in turn put an entire generation of new surfers in the water – most of whom decided to hate Gidget as a surf-Eden destroyer until they later came to love it as a memento of their beachgoing youth.”

Kathy Kohner-Zuckerman aka Gidget

In Deanne Stillman’s article she writes “The great Kahoona,” the Gidget character says in the novella, “showed me the first time how to get on my knees, to push the shoulders up and slide the body back—to spring to your feet quickly, putting them a foot apart and under you in one motion. That’s quite tricky. But then, surf-riding is not playing Monopoly, and the more I got the knack of it, the more I was crazy about it and the more I was crazy about it, the harder I worked at it.” This is one of the best descriptions of surfing I have come across …”

The topic of Gidget is interesting for followers of surf culture on many levels, not least how – in such a macho world as surfing – did a short female surfer become so popular?


Gidget – The novel

Further reading; The Washing Post.  September 2005; In Malibu, Gidget’s Up – http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/09/16/AR2005091600693.html

From the news wires… Random Happenings.

This week’s random happenings; a collection of news items that caught our attention.

Most mornings prior to going off to the day job, over a cup of coffee I tweet about surfing or travel news items that I hope are of interest to those who follow inkydeep.  Here’s a few of this week’s random happenings:

Surf stoke… no matter where you surf
From some of the images and videos shot of surfing the great lakes of North America you would not initially know that those surfers were not in the ocean. Their surf experience is no less valid than those who are lucky enough to surf ocean waves. Watch any video of those who surf the great lakes and one thing always come across… they are stoked to surf!

From wdio.com; “A lot of people think we’re crazy because we have to paddle for 45 minutes to get a ten second ride, but there’s something about harnessing the energy of the lake, and you know these waves are generated by mother nature,” Isaacson said. “When you do actually make that connection with the wave, it’s really an elating feeling.”

Lake Superior Surfing – http://www.wdio.com/article/stories/S2095041.shtml?cat=10348

Be sure to watch the video report.

Oh, Kahuna, What Became of That Endless Summer?
California and the end of the beach movie… An interesting comparison by the New York Times of the golden era of California and the rise and fall of the surf beach movie.

Picture: NYT & Photofest. The Endless Summer.

From The New York Times; “Although the ocean’s waves are cyclic, recurring, endless, and summers, when they’re over, always come back again in another year, Golden Ages somehow never do, except in the eternal, pounding breakers of the imagination. California may never be what it once was, or mean what it once meant. But wouldn’t it be nice?”

Oh, Kahuna, What Became of That Endless Summer? – http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/01/movies/california-and-the-end-of-beach-movies.html

No paddling required
Its quite likely that the new powered WaveJet surfboard is going to raise heckles in the surf line up and the users will no doubt get the old stink eye. You cannot but help think of the positive applications and use of such a surfboard, for example, those who may not be able to paddle into waves.

Picture: Chuck Kirkman & The Star. The motorised surfboard.

vcstar.com reports; “Walden, who has been shaping boards for decades, has been making sure the board still feels and rides like a regular board. Though the board has to be 3 inches thick where the motor is located — under where a surfer would plant his or her back foot — the rest of it is just like a normal board. Walden said he’ll have boards from 7 feet and up for sale.”

Motorized surfboard hits the wave – http://www.vcstar.com/news/2011/may/01/motorized-surfboard-hits-the-wave/

The excitement of surf travel…
Whether going on a local surfari or preparing to fly off to some warm surf destination there is the excitement of the trip ahead and the anticipation of the waves to be surfed.  A recent article on the Imperial Beach Patch website evokes all those emotions…

Photo: Serge Dedina & Imperial Beach Patch. The Hollister Ranch.

From imperialbeachpatch.com; “Our first stop along the way was Trestles. Our session at Lowers proved why Surfline recently called it one of Southern California’s “most rippable summertime attractions.” The mid-morning crowd at Lower’s was manageable, the water was in the low 60s and the southern hemisphere swell provided great 3- to 5-foot rippable walls.”

Up the PCH – http://imperialbeach.patch.com/articles/up-the-pch#photo-5913329

Post surf munchies… I think I need to go to Pipe’s Café for a breakfast burrito…

Random Happenings…

This week’s random happenings; a collection of news items that caught our attention.

Most mornings prior to going off to the day job, over a cup of coffee I tweet about surfing or travel news items that I hope are of interest to those who follow inkydeep.  Here’s a collection of this week’s random happenings:

Documenting river surfing in Munich
Keep Surfing, documenting Munich river surfing and the associated subculture.  Shot in 2009, Keep Surfing was being shown as part of the Australian Festival of German Films.

From The Sydney Morning Herald; “Beautifully shot and deliciously surreal, the film focuses on six of the river’s most hardcore locals, including Quirin Rohleder, who began riding the Eisbach on a boogie board and went on to become a pro surfer, and Walter ”The Janitor” Strasser, a formidably hairy former motorcycle gang member and mechanic who abandoned work to concentrate on river surfing and making didgeridoos in his apartment.”

Picture: SMH. The standing wave on the river Eisbach, Munich.

Hangin’ five at the world’s most unusual surf break -http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/movies/hangin-five-at-the-worlds-most-unusual-surf-break-20110408-1d7jy.html

Boycotting the ASP Longboard Tour
Reigning women’s world longboard champion Cori Schumacher taking a stand against the Association of Surfing Professionals staging an event in Hainan Island, China.

From the Del Mar Times; “I felt like I had two choices: I could go with my reservations and wear a ‘Free Tibet’ shirt, or something trite like that. Or, I could stand up for what I believe in and hopefully call more attention to these issues through a boycott.”

Picture: Del Mar Times. Cori Schumacher, toes on the nose.

Solana Beach: World longboard champion Cori Schumacher stays true to who she is – http://www.delmartimes.net/2011/04/12/solana-beach-world-longboard-champion-cori-schumacher-stays-true-to-who-she-is/

Old Guard, New Guard
A look at the young women currently on the ASP Women’s World Tour.  From ESPN; “This year, 19 no longer sounds young; it sounds like the norm. Of the 17 women on the elite tour, eight are 20 or younger and six of those eight are currently ranked in the top 10. These girls represent a new era in women’s surfing; one dominated by contest-smart, competitive, well-coached athletes who all believe they can be world champion.”

Picture: ASP. Tyler Wright at Pipeline.

From ESPN; Terrible teens – http://espn.go.com/action/surfing/news/story?page=2011-asp-world-tour-rip-curl-pro-bells-beach-womens-preview

This Week – Random Happenings…

This week’s random happenings; a collection of news items that caught our attention.

Most mornings prior to going off to the day job, over a cup of coffee I tweet about surfing or travel news items that I hope are of interest to those who follow inkydeep.  Here’s the best of this week’s random happenings:

1. Surf and the City
Kelly Slater and Taj Burrow score a super clean Ours; the Sydney slab that is.  It seems no matter where or what Kelly surf’s he makes it look effortless.

Picture: ASL.  Ray Collins.
http://www.surfinglife.com.au/news/asl-news/6034-surf-and-the-city

2. St Ives, Cornwall – one of the top ten beach destinations in Europe
A shout out for St Ives.  TripAdvisor rates St Ives the sixth best European beach resort ahead of Spain, France and Italy.  Malcolm Bell, head of tourism at visitcornwall.com “… the award was an amazing testament to one of the jewels in Cornwall’s crown”. He added: “As well as stunning beaches it has a range of quality accommodation and fantastic attractions making it appeal to visitors of all ages and interests.”

Picture: The Guardian.  Julian Finney/Getty Images
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/apr/04/st-ives-cornwall-best-european-beach-destinations

3. Not just for new surfers
Learning the basics… A report on the tension between experienced surfers and those learning to surf at Linda Mar, Pacifica, California.  In response to the reporter asking how people felt about surf schools, how about this for some choice words:

“Do not fall prey to the siren call of the “surf schools” who are only interested in counting their wads of cash while pretending to turn you from a kook into a Kelly (Slater),” said Ward Walkup, a Pacifica resident. “You will be shoved out into the already over-clogged lineups ill-prepared to deal with psycho locals, chop hopping punks, SUP malcontents and gray haired longboard wannabes.”

Picture: The Pacifica Patch.  Glen Hogerton.
http://pacifica.patch.com/articles/surfing-etiquette-on-the-crowded-seas

4. The consumer decisions we make
The sport we love and it’s highly toxic equipment.  Eco-friendly surfing: coming soon to a beach near you? A good article and insight on the progress being made within the surfing industry on the use of earth-friendly materials.

Picture: Mother Nature Network.  DSuar/Flickr.
http://www.mnn.com/health/fitness-well-being/stories/eco-friendly-surfing-coming-soon-to-a-beach-near-you

Trelissick Gallery opening 2011 Cornwall Surfing Style

Saturday 29 January sees Cornwall Surfing Style opening the season at the Trelissick Gallery, organised by Cornwall Crafts Association in collaboration with The National Trust Trelissick.

Alongside the hand-crafted wooden surfboards and furniture of artisan James Otter, the Museum of British Surfing will be displaying a small selection of historic wooden surfboards from over the last 100 years.  Beachwear and other items from its collection along with their 60′s VW combi van will also be displayed.  Surf artist Ben Cook will also be there book signing.

The gallery is in the grounds of the National Trust’s Trelissick Gardens and park. Sounds like a cool way to spend a few hours.

http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/2011/01/24/cornwall-surfing-style/
http://www.cornwallcrafts.co.uk/
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-trelissickgarden

Cold water pioneers

When cold water is all you have… from today’s The Telegraph an article by Chris Nelson on surfing’s cold water pioneers.  I felt cold after reading this article and had to put on a warmer top… brrr

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/othersports/surfing/8187172/Ice-breakers-surfings-cold-water-pioneers.html

No love?

“Why does the world’s greatest surfer get no love?” – Interesting and insightful article about Kelly Slater and surfing on slate.com – “You Should worship Kelly Slater”

Allan Weisbecker

Allan Weisbecker, one of our favourite surfer/authors who wrote the Cosmic Banditos and In Search of Captain Zero, has been working on a surf memoir film titled ‘Water Time; Surf Travel of a MadMan’. Shooting for the film started back in 2008 so it has been in production for a while.

There is a teaser for the film out on YouTube…

… and more about Allan and his works can be found on his website – http://www.banditobooks.com/.